FIRE
EXTINGUISHERS
We know what they do, we know….uh, well….we know what they do. In reality, we actually know very little about fire extinguishers. We know they extinguish fires but there are other important things to learn about fire extinguishers that will help us.
There is an interesting fact about fires.
Did you know that fire is the same as
rust? Well, not literally, of
course, but they are the same process. Fire
produces heat, so does rust, we just don’t feel it in rust.
Fire reduces fuels to ashes, rust
reduces metal to dust. The process
is calledoxidation. Fire is very
rapid and rust is very slow.
When we talk about heat, we mean the heat that may have caused the fire and the heat the fire produces. The heat that causes the fire can be small in size, like lighters, candles, matches, woodstoves, ovens, and space heaters, butthe heat a fire produces is tremendous. This tremendous heat builds from an initial 150 degrees to over 1100 degrees in a room on fire and has a domino effect on the whole process. The more heat the fire produces, the faster and easier things are destroyed by it. Let me describe it this way, a fire will travel faster UP a hill than down it. Now, the physics I learned is that anythinwill travel downhill faster than uphill, something to do with gravity. But the heat a fire produces preheats the fuel (we will discuss this later) in front of it, so the brush, trees, and grass on a hill gets pre-burned.
We
can deal with the heat in two ways, before
and after. Dealing with the heat
before includes kitchen fire safety, which I
recently wrote about. Safe use of
candles, as well as space heaters, is also
important. Dealing with the
heat after includes removing the heat to put
the fire out. That is one way the
extinguisher works.
The powder it contains removes the heat by absorption and by replacing
the super heated air with cool, fresh air.
The fuel part of fire can be very diverse. It is what the scientists call combustible materials or flammable liquids. Materials can be described as those that leave an ash when burned. We know combustible materials as plain old ordinary stuff. Couches, wood paneling, dried paint on the walls, curtains, carpets, dressers, television sets, appliances and just about anything else in our homes. Liquids are petroleum based products that don’t leave an ash when burned. We know flammable liquids as gas, propane, mineral spirits, and solvents. We can remove the fuel from a fire by simply keeping things neat and tidy. I have been into homes that have stacks of old newspapers all over.
These are loads of fuel. I have also been into homes that have basements filled with fire wood. LOTS of fuel! An extinguisher removes the fuel by covering it with a powder and by replacing the oxygen.
The third part of the fire triangle is oxygen. It seems as though it may be the most difficult part to remove since it is all around us and so abundant. But, in reality, it is pretty easy to remove. Have you ever been told to sleep with your door closed at night? This creates little compartments out ofyour home. This separates a fire from the oxygen in other compartments. I have seen fires in a bedroom that have burned themselves out of oxygen and out of business. I have been to fires that began in the basement and did major structural damage, yet the only indication of a fire was a slight smoke smell on the main floor, all because the basement door was closed.
There is a very dangerous aspect of closed doors and fire that I have to mention. Have you watched the movie called "Back Draft"? This movie is about an arsonist who specializes in creating back drafts. A back draft phenomenon occurs when a fire in a closed atmosphere has burned away almost all of the oxygen. The fire is in a smoldering state and the whole room and contents are superheated, even the air and gases. The back draft occurs when oxygen is re-introduced back into the atmosphere. Everything in the room ignites all at once with enough force to kill.
The
best way to avoid back draft situations is to follow a good escape plan and
get out. Oxygen can also be dealt
with before and after. We see that
closing doors deals with it before and the
extinguisher deals with it after. It replaces the oxygen
with either carbon dioxide or smothers it so no oxygen can get
to the fire.
We
need to classify the types of fuel in order to understand the types of extinguishers.
Would you bring a basketball to a soccer game?
Not all balls are the same even though
they look alike. Not all
extinguishers are the same even though they
look alike. We discussed two of the
classes of fuels earlier, combustible
materials, or class A fuels, and flammable liquids, or class B fuels.
Class C fuels are energized electrical equipment.
It is considered class C until the
power is disconnected, then it becomes either a class A or B fuel. Class
D fires involve combustible metals. Yes,
metal burns, or more correctly, the vapors
from the superheated metal (oxidation process) burns.
Can yourecall the VW Bugs of the 1960’s?
If you owned one, you had a combustible metal
parked in your garage. The engine
blocks of the early VW’s were
cast from magnesium.
Magnesium is pretty neat to see burn.
Imagine the surprise of many a fire
fighter when they apply water to that burning VW!
You see, magnesium on fire reacts
violently with water and produces the exact opposite effectyou would expect,
very bright light and tremendous flames. So
you see how important the classification of
fuels is concerning the different types of extinguishers.
There are three common types of extinguishers. Knowing the classes of fuels and the types of extinguishers, you will have the knowledge you need to purchase the correct extinguisher for your home. There are several more types, but you don’t have a manufacturing plant in your home, so you don’t need to know about extinguishers you may never see.
All
fire extinguishers have a pictograph, or a
picture, of what they can be used for. A
class A extinguisher has a picture of a
garbage can on fire. Class B
extinguishers have a picture of a gas can on
fire. They may also have pictures
with a line through it to show what classes
of fire they shouldn’t be used on.
The
first type of extinguisher is called the water or APW (Air Pressurized Water)
extinguisher. A very big squirt
gun, really. It has a pressure
gauge and a small diameter hose.
Nitrogen is usually used as the propellant.
This extinguisher is to be used on
class A fires only.
Obviously,
water on class C fires, electrical fires, is dangerous and it will only
spread a class B fire, a liquid fuel fire.
This type of extinguisher works by
cooling the fire or removing the heat.
The
second type of extinguisher is a carbon dioxide extinguisher.
It doesn’t have a pressure gauge and
has a large bell shaped nozzle. This
type of extinguisher is not filled to a
certain pressure like those with gauges but by weight.
The nozzle is designed to spread the carbon dioxide over the fire better.
This type of extinguisher works by replacing the
oxygen with the carbon dioxide or removing
the oxygen. Use this type on Class
B and C fires.
The last type, the most common, is called a dry chemical extinguisher. It has a small diameter hose and a pressure gauge. It is filled with a dry, whitish/yellowish powder and usually nitrogen. Have you ever suffered from heart-burn? This type of extinguisher is like a giant Rolaids or Tums because the powder is sodium based. It does contain a fire retardant but it is relatively harmless. Relatively only because you don’t consume it or breath it constantly.
A
word of caution is warranted. If
you need to experiment to see what a dry
chemical extinguisher can do, do it outside.
So many have discharged an extinguisher
inside just to see it work and have paid dearly.
The powder gets into EVERYTHING!
Any nook and cranny, crevice or hole, dishes, and appliances, everything
gets covered. It is difficult to
clean up because water or liquid cleaners
make a paste out of it. The serious
possible side-affect is with electronic
equipment because the powder is corrosive to the parts and pieces of the
equipment. It may fail in the
future. This type of extinguisher
works two ways. It removes the oxygen and it removes the heat.
Use this type on classA, B, and C fires.
Not
only do extinguishers have to be the correct type, they also have to be the
proper size in order to be effective. Imagine
trying to fit into size 6 shoes with size 13
feet! It won’t work. Imagine trying to use an undersize extinguisher.
It won’t work, but it WILL be dangerous.
Fire extinguishers also have a number
rating. For class A fires, ordinary
paper and wood fires, a 1 would mean that
extinguisher will do the work of 1 _ gallons of water, a 2 would
mean that extinguisher will do the work of 2 _ gallons of water.
For B and C class fires, the number
represents area. For example, a 2
would indicate the extinguisher will handle a
two square foot fire, a 5 would mean it will handle
a five square foot fire.
We understand the science of fire, the types of extinguishers, and the classes of fires. Now let’s cover how to use them. Two acronyms are used to help us with this. R.A.C.E. and P.A.S.S.
R.A.C.E.
stands for Rescue, Alarm, Contain, and
Extinguish. We must
first
P.A.S.S. simply stands for Pull, Aim, Squeeze, and Sweep. In order for the handle to be squeezed, you need to pull the pin. This also involves twisting the pin to break the plastic strap that holds it in place. Next, you need to aim the extinguisher at the BASE of the fire. This is the most effective place to put the contents of the extinguisher. I have found in most demonstrations that people tend to aim the nozzle at the big flames above what is on fire, and all it does is fan the flames and have no effect on the fire itself. Next, you need to squeeze the handle, all the way. And the last thing you need to do is sweep the nozzle from side to side across the base of the fire. This will place the contents evenly and effectively over the fire. This is another thing people forget to do. They start to turn and run because it is getting too hot for them to stay that close. And turning your back on a fire is never a good thing either. Always back away whenever you are done or if the attempt has failed. There are some conflicting thoughts on how much of theextinguisher you should use on the fire. One idea is to start using the extinguisher and not stop until it is empty. Another is to only use what is necessary to put the fire out. Both ideas are fine, it just depends on the situation. If you are next to a doorway, use it all and ensure the fire is out. If you are in the basement, use only what is necessary to put the fire out and save the rest as an insurance policy in case you need it on the way out.
That
is fire extinguishers in a nutshell. Just how many should you have? More
than you will ever need, I think. Of
course, the best way to avoid having to make
all those decisions is to prevent the fire from happening.
In my next installment, I will discuss
some prevention tips that you can implementin your homes.
Jim
Carroll
Fire Prevention Education Officer
Grand Traverse Fire Department